Sulawesi, from Tana Toraja to Togean Islands

After crossing Tana Toraja by bike for 2 days seeing multiple burial sites we were ready for the next leg of our journey. The busride to Tentena has a reputation; 16 hours through windy roads, so we decided to become big spenders and rent a car. Enos the friendly owner of Rosalina homestay helped us out and organised a car to reduce our trip to around 10 hours. Our next destination was Dolidi Ndano Towale at Tentena, a resort with a special story. This experience would become one of the highlights of our trip so far. Not because the resort was beautiful situated at lake Poso, not because they had the best saté of Sulawesi, but because of what is being done here for the poor kids of Tentena.
The resort is led by Son and Joyce. Son was a former guide in Tentena who lost his home and work in the religious violence between christians and moslems some years back. Son was befriended with a dutch guy Eef and he supported Son to build up, step by step, the guesthouse which is now Dolidi. But it didn't stop there. The profits of the guesthouse are used, with the help of sponsors, to build up a sweet haven and a future for the orphans of Tentena. We have seen it and it is impressive what has been achieved here. All the money coming in is going to the kids and the kids, whoo all have had their personal tragedies, flourish in this happy community. We met and played with the 20 children, we met with the staff and with Eef and I kindly ask you all to check the website and if possible contribute with a little donation. You can change the world's misery, but sometimes you can create a little miracle and this is what Dolidi Ndano Towale is. The goal is to keep the children out the rice field and give them an education and future. Eef and Son are very proud now that the first four kids made it to Makassar were they study at the university, their education still paid by Dolidi.
After Dolidi we went to Ampana as we are on our way to the Togean Islands. I have just recovered from a serious infection on my foot which forced us to our already second visit to a hospital and Katja has got ill again as well. Fever, diarrhoea, very painfull cramps, not very good.
Anyway with another taxi we travelled to Ampana and took the slowboat to the islands. The slowboat makes its reputation come true, it is slow. we bought our tickets and boarded in time......and waited....and waited. The boat was loaded with everything which is not available on the islands, which is about everything. The locals loaded 60 large cannisters with petrol under deck. How did we know it was petrol? Well it was leaking, there were no lids on the cannisters and everybody had a burning cigarette in his mouth. It is unbelievable. Of course we were the only tourists on board. From the deck we could see 2 other tourist which we already spotted at other occasions in Sulawesi and they took the fast boat. We already marked them as the BWH ( big white hunters) as they were both dressed in khaki including hat. By the time we left the harbour they had already arrived at Black Marlin Resort which was also our destination.
Anyway we enjoyed our trip and arrived in Wakai at the Togeans where The people of Black Marlin would pick us up. Of course that didn't happen and we waited again. In the meantime a storm was building up and by the time we were on the water with Unke, our captain, we had serious waves in our open boat. Completely soaked and with wet backpacks we arrived and we waved to the BWH's who were already sitting on their balcony. At the dinner we met finally and they appeared to be Joerg and Anna. With them we spend quite some time as we were all diving with Ali, the flamboyant dive guide at Black Marlin. The Togeans are great, another paradise and we extended our stay at Togeans once it became clear Katja finally recovered from her illness. So we spend our days with diving, snorkeling, sunbathing and drinking beer and enormous amounts of tea with Joerg and Anna and the other guests at Kadidiri Paradise, the resort next door we moved to. As we read in the lonely planet; it is difficult to get to the Togeans, but even more difficult to leave again. 3 days ago we left and went to Luwuk, this time with the fast boat. With pain in our heart, but looking forward to have some more choice of food, we travelled with Shane and Adam Our first night once back on the mainland Sulawesi we had our lucky moment; a shower with hot water, a bathroom without cockroaches, a bed which didn't squeak and barbecue BARBECUE!!! Unlimited beef and kambing ( goat) after being on a fish and rice diet for more than 10 days. Now we arrived in Surabaya Java where we have a few luxury recovery days at the local Marriott hotel